Chances are more gallons of Carignan are produced on the planet every year than any other wine – and virtually none of it is bottled under that name. Responsible for untold millions of cases of jug wine from Southern France and California’s Central Valley. Yet under the right conditions – mature vines, restricted yields, careful winemaking – it can make perfectly respectable wine and, if used in moderation, add a useful flavor dimension (as well as color and tannin) to blends.